pair of rats snuggle together on towel
Rats do better in pairs or groups. Brandi Saxton of It’s A Rat’s World

So, you’ve decided to get pet rats, but how do you choose which ones? Before tackling this, know the pros and cons of sharing your life with pet rats, research the basics of rats and their care, and purchase an appropriate cage and all necessary supplies. Or maybe you already have rats and instead plan on adding some friends to your current mischief (group of rats).

With research and preparations done, the only thing left is picking out your new rat pals. And yes, I did say “pals” in the plural. Rats are social animals that do better in groups of two or more, so please plan for at least two.

How Many Rats?

If you’re just starting out with rats for the first time, two might feel overwhelming — not to mention more expensive. However, I encourage newbies who can afford it and have the space for a large enough cage to get three. This way you’re not left with a singleton when a rat eventually passes away. But this is a personal decision.

Males Or Females?

two rats standing together on a towel
These two female rats are wonderful pets, and male rats are also wonderful. Note: If you keep both sexes together, one sex must be neutered. Brandi Saxton of It’s A Rat’s World

Once you decide on the maximum number of rats you’re able to house, consider whether you want boys or girls. For some unexplained reason, I always gravitate more to male rats. There’s just something so special about these big, loveable squishies that I cannot resist. But the soft, silky, fruity-smelling fur of a female is also pretty darn special! It’s a difficult decision, really, because both sexes make truly wonderful pets. You can’t go wrong with either.

Female rats typically stay more active and busier throughout their lives, while male rats become lazier as they age. This has led to claims that females are less cuddly and more difficult to bond with — but this is patently untrue. Girls can be just as cuddly and form bonds with their owners, too. Whichever sex you enjoy more is an individual choice, and every owner seems to end up with a preference.

Important note: If you want to have both females and males at the same time, you must ensure that either all of the girls or all of the boys are fixed. This brings up another choice you need to make. There are more medical advantages to having the females spayed, especially between 3 or 4 months of age. Spaying at this age helps prevent hormone-related diseases like mammary or pituitary tumors and some cancers, which are prevalent in females.

Neutering a male doesn’t prevent mammary tumors, but it can prevent testicular cancer. It also makes their fur softer, reduces the amount of yellowy/orange buck grease they produce on their backs, lessens urine marking, and can reduce aggressive behavior.

Note that a rat’s age and health status can affect surgical decisions, so consult your rat-savvy veterinarian.

I personally choose to have all my female rats spayed, whether or not I have males. And I’m happy to report that only one of my girls ever got mammary tumors, which was likely from not being spayed until after I adopted her at 1.5 years old. Spaying does add an extra expense, which should be factored in when deciding whether you want girls and how many you want. All of my rats that have lived the longest (3 years or older) were female, except for one male. Sadly, my boys have just never lived as long as my girls. So, I believe there’s something to be said about having spayed females.

Rat Appearance

a collage of several varieties of pet rat
Pet rats are available in numerous varieties. This image shows only a few. Brandi Saxton of It’s A Rat’s World

Unlike dogs and cats, pet rats do not come in different breeds. There is a fairly wide selection of colors and markings, however. Not to mention different options of fur texture (or lack of fur), ear placement, eye color, and even sizes (there are dwarf rats!). But these differences won’t determine a rat’s personality and are only about aesthetics. These can be very helpful in narrowing down your options if you’re faced with too many adorable rats to choose from, though.

For instance, if you’re adopting from a large litter or from a rescue filled with homeless rats, having a color, marking, or fur preference may remove any indecision.

I have a particular weakness for Dumbo rats (ears on the side of the head), and hairless or Rex (curly fur and whiskers) rats. I also swoon over face markings like splotches or coloring around the eyes, as seen with Blazes (a white, wedge-shaped marking that runs down the center of the face) or Capped rats (only the face is colored; often with a white spot or line on the forehead). And when it comes to color, my absolute favorites are anything from the Blue or Russian Blue varieties or a Siamese/Himalayan. Many times I’ve done an unplanned adoption because one of these became available at the rescue I adopt from.

Be aware that hairless rats do require a few moderations to their diet to ensure they are getting enough calories, and they may need some grooming help to keep their skin from getting overly dry. But they are still as easy to care for as rats with fur.

Spend a little time looking up “rat varieties” to learn more about the different types. If you want something specific, find a trustworthy rat breeder who specializes in that variety.

Age Considerations

baby rats nursing
From baby to senior, rats can be adopted at any age. Baby rats must be weaned before being adopted out. Brandi Saxton of It’s A Rat’s World

Deciding what age of rat you want is purely about preference and your time commitment. Most people usually want babies, but some prefer older rats or ones with special needs.

Babies are little balls of energy that never stop moving or exploring. They should already be weaned and never adopted before the age of 4 to 5 weeks old. A plus for babies is getting the most time possible with them, and who doesn’t love a baby animal? But they can also be more skittish at first.

Older rats, on the other hand, are more likely to cuddle, urine mark less than babies, learn their names quicker, and usually have established personalities. But they may need a little more time learning to trust you if they were previously neglected, abused, or not properly socialized.

Baby rats are a pure delight. I’ll admit that I have a difficult time turning down young rats that are up for adoption, but some of my most memorable and cherished rats are the ones I adopted when they were over the age of 1. So don’t rule out older rats.

The only time I suggest avoiding baby rats is if your cage is technically made for ferrets or has bars more than half an inch apart. In this case, start with an older rat (at least 6 to 8 months), as babies can easily squeeze out of cages with wider bar spacing. Keep in mind that smaller adult females might be able to escape as well.

Where To Get Healthy Rats

several pet rats peering out from a cage
When faced with several adoptable rats at a rescue, it can be difficult to make a choice. Brandi Saxton of It’s A Rat’s World

When getting rats, look for a place that doesn’t house them on cedar or pine shavings or keep them in small glass aquariums. You want healthy rats that are not sneezing or wheezing, or covered in porphyrin. Porphyrin is a red discharge that comes from the tear ducts and can be found around the eyes and nose, or on the fur. Look for a place that treats rats for mites or lice. And avoid any place that houses intact females and males together in the same cage or won’t let you handle them.

My personal preference is to adopt rats through a reputable rescue, especially one that specializes in rats. Most rat rescues rely on a foster home system rather than a shelter building. One advantage to this is that foster homes often have more time to socialize with the rats and learn a little about their personalities. They often have bonded pairs or keep siblings of the same sex together whenever possible. In some cases, you may even find females that have already been spayed. And depending on the rescue, the rats are likely to have gone through some sort of health checkup or quarantine process before being adopted out. This is especially helpful if you’re bringing new rats into an already-established mischief. Otherwise, you risk exposing your rats to rat-related parasites and illness.

Research first when choosing a rat rescue. Rescues are a great way to give a rat in need a forever home and to help support a rescue group.

Other options for getting rats are local shelters like a humane society, reputable breeders who pay attention to health and proper care, a friend you trust who’s had an “oops” litter, or someone you know who’s rehoming rats. You can even ask a local exotic vet clinic if they know anyone rehoming rats. Rescues and reputable breeders usually list their adoptable rats on their websites, which is a plus and allows you to pick your favorites from home.

Assess Health

close up of a rat's nose that shows porphyrin around the nostrils
Always look over any rat you’re considering adopting for signs of health issues. Excess porphyrin around the nostrils or eyes might be a concern. Brandi Saxton of It’s A Rat’s World

Make sure to pay attention to the rats’ health when choosing. They should not be sneezing, or sound congested or sick in any way. Look for an excess of porphyrin around the eyes or nose, and on their fur — this can be a sign of respiratory illness. For instance, if lighter fur looks pinkish, that is most likely from an excess of porphyrin that is spread around as the rat grooms itself. Fur should also look clean and should not be brittle or patchy (unless the rat is of the Rex variety that naturally loses fur). The rats should also not be covered in scabs or have obvious signs of parasites.

If a rat you’re considering does look ill or you have questions, talk to the people you’re getting it from. Ask if the rat has been examined by a veterinarian, is being treated for illness, or has gone through any type of quarantine.

Temperament

four rats standing together on a towel
It could take days or weeks before a rat feels safe enough in a new place to reveal their true personality. Brandi Saxton of It’s A Rat’s World

I don’t believe there are any hard rules when choosing a rat for their temperament. That’s because new situations and meeting new people can hide their true personalities. And some young rats haven’t fully come into them yet. A shy rat at a rescue may not stay shy, and a hyper rat may not maintain that same energy. It can take several days, weeks, or even months for some rats to let their guard down and feel safe. If a rat is overly aggressive, however, or attempts to bite you, you should probably avoid them unless you’re an experienced owner who knows how to work with such rats.

For newer and less experienced owners, take a moment with the rats you’re considering. See which draws you the most. Who is curiously checking you out? Who stays relatively calm when being held? Is one doing anything particularly adorable? Are there bonded rats that can be adopted together?

Make sure to listen to your inner voice. Within a few minutes I wouldn’t be surprised if you know exactly who you want. On many occasions I showed up to a foster home to pick up rats I had already agreed to take, and then I spotted another that immediately grabbed my attention. Either their appearance caught my eye, or they had some funny little quirk I couldn’t resist. Regardless of the reason, I knew in that moment that I was coming home with more rats than I originally intended. And every one of those rats turned out to be among my most cherished.

Good luck on your rat-finding journey, I hope you enjoy your new friends!

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